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The April SUPER Question was:
Why do dogs bury their bones (raw)? What nutritional purpose does it serve?
Answer:
Buried raw bones slowly decompose due to the enzymes present. It is actually quite healthy for your dog to eat the buried bones, as long as they were RAW when they were buried. The enzymes present are still alive, just in a different, although still usable, chemical state.
When bones are cooked, all of the valuable enzymes are destroyed in the process. This means that the buried cooked bones are being attacked by dangerous bacteria which can produce deadly toxins such as those that cause Botulism, a deadly paralizing disease.
Incidentally, cooked bones should NEVER be fed to your dog. Once bones are cooked, their whole chemical composition changes. They become harder, more brittle, and more splintery. Further, the cooking process makes certain minerals in the bones bind to the calcium that is left, making it unavailable for assimilation, which can lead to other problems.
In summary, raw meaty bones can and should be an important part of your dog's overall diet. Also, if your dog is burying bones, they are getting too much to eat.
Adapted from Give Your Dog a Bone, Billinghurst, I. p.120.
RAW food?
The Basics
Diet Essentials: Lots of raw meaty bones, lots of vegetables and fruit, small amounts of grain and starch type foods, eggs, oil, dairy products, and offal products. Supplementation is animal-specific and can be adjusted over time to make the diet complete.
Meat and Bones
Dogs can and should eat raw, meaty bones. Do not worry about crushing the bones and certainly do not cut the meat off of the bone, that is part of the fun for your pet. Very young puppies and kittens, seniors, and pets missing teeth may benefit from having the bone crushed or ground. DO vary the type of bones and meat fed. Popular choices include beef, chicken, lamb, pork, rabbit, etc.
Don't neglect the bone portion of your feeding routine. Bones not only clean teeth and provide exercise (among other things), they help to firm the stool and naturally expel the anal glands...hint, hint if your pet is rubbing its behind on the ground. ONLY RAW BONES!
Vegetables
Vegetables are an essential part of your pet's meals. Dogs in the wild eat the stomach contents of their prey to get their vegetables. Alternatively, a very hungry dog will scavenge on just about anything - veggies included. Vegetables will need to be broken down in order for your pet to digest them. Finely chopped, blended, juiced, or pureed only. Your final product should resemble the stomach contents of a prey animal. All vegetables that I know of are safe in controlled doses. The ones to be careful with are garlic, onions, and the starchy, underground varieties.
Fruit
Fruit is beneficial in the diet for several reasons. Fruit provides some excellent digestive enzymes, vitamin C, many vitamins and antioxidants, a good source of fiber, as well as tons of other helpful properties. Tropical fruit has the highest availability of vitamin C and helpful digestive enzymes. Again, these foods must be reduced to the stomach contents of a prey animal in order to be digestible.
Grains
Grains and legumes should make up a small portion of your dog's diet. The best type to use are rolled oats as they do have close to 15% protein and actually have the highest fatty acid percentages (7-8%) amongst grains, especially more than rice. White rice is fine in small amounts, as is almost everything. However, for the long-term health of your pet, rice cannot be the main staple. If you must use it, choose brown rice. Oats (or similar grains like barley or rye) need to be soaked in water or raw milk for a minimum of 1 hour, preferrably overnight, before fed to your pet.
In addition, when feeding grains, it is wise to add legumes to balance the fiber and protein of the meal. Sprouted grains are a good source, as are most beans, peas, etc. The long and spindly sprouts in the grocery store have lost most of their nutrients, so I am referring to 'just-sprouted' seeds from your garden or a health food store. Dogs especially, usually love nuts as well; peanuts, almonds, etc.
Lastly, in the grain category are starch-based foods. Potatoes are fine in moderation, sweet potatoes or yams are better, but still on a limited basis. If feeding bread, ensure that is is from mostly or all whole grains. Just remember that carbohydrates in pets act the same way as they do in humans: simple carbohydrates inbalance blood sugar for a short time, causing energy dips and falls; complex carbohydrates, burning slower, provide longer lasting and more even energy. Finally, dogs and especially cats, are not 'equipped' to handle a mostly carbohydrate diet, regardless of the source.
Eggs
Eggs are regarded as the "perfect" protein. They are one of the cheapest sources of protein and essential fatty acids. Eggs contain a full range of minerals, including calcium; all vitamins, except 'C'; high quality saturated and unsaturated fatty acids; lecithin; and the whole range of enzymes and other longevity factors always present in raw food. The shell is a further calcium source. Some people believe that the egg white is not acceptable due to several ezyme inhibitors and a substance called Avidin that binds Biotin. This has not shown to be a problem when fed in conjunction with the yolk - just don't feed only egg whites, or you may end up with a biotin deficiency.
Eggs are excellent food for dogs with skin issues due to all of the available essential fatty acids. Also, eggs provide support to the male reproductive system and are advised if breeding your male.
Oil
Oils and fats are an essential part of your pet's diet. Essential in every sense; without them, disease will occur. Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) produce a group of hormone-like molecules called prostaglandins. Prostaglandins help regulate every function of the body. There are two families of the EFAs: Omega 6 and Omega 3.
Suggested sources of oil: cod liver oil, corn oil, soyabean oil, wheat germ oil, cottonseed oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil, coconut oil, flaxseed oil, etc. Make sure the oil you use is "virgin", which just means that it has not been heat processed.
Dairy Products
Dogs and cats cannot assimilate modern pasteurized milk products. This is because after weaning, most animals lose their ability to digest lactose and milk sugars. Raw milk products are best, goat's milk is usually available at the supermarket raw. Other excellent choices: yogurt does not contain lactose, but does contain live and active cultures; cheese does not contain milk sugars any longer because the whey is removed, so cottage cheese (full fat variety) and a limited amount of shredded cheeses are good protein choices.
Offal
This category includes the organ meat of other animals. Dogs and cats in the wild usually eat the brains and other organs of their prey first, before going onto the muscle meat. Organ meat is very concentrated and should not be the main source of your pet's diet, but a complement to it. Organ meat is extremely useful during certain times of growth, reproduction, and stress. Good choices are beef liver, tongue, etc. or chicken innards like gizzards, hearts, etc.
The last thing to mention, that is not included above, is that table scraps can be a normal part of your pet's diet. However, if you choose to eat food fried and dripping with fat, don't subject your pet to that. Choose wisely - leftover spaghetti noodles, mashed potatoes, steamed veggies, cereals, breads, etc. and only in moderation.
Adapted from Give Your Dog a Bone and numerous other books and research. I encourage pet owners to do at least some research before attempting to make a complete switch. A raw diet can be just as detrimental to your pet's health as commercially-processed food if you are not meeting your pet's basic requirements over time. I assure you, it is well-worth the time and effort!
I also do nutritional consulting, you can contact me for a quote.
~R
Fleas Bugging You?
There are many, many natural choices for flea control. We do not use chemicals to kill parasites on our pets.
An extremely healthy dog is *usually* not infested with fleas. Research over the years has shown that certain things that your pet eats can and will deter fleas, making them an undesirable host. If an infestation is already in progress, different measures will need to be taken. However, getting on the right track now will help in the future.
Internal methods - Garlic, Brewer's Yeast (NOT nutritional yeast), Diatomaceous Earth, and Black Walnut Hulls. Garlic should be fresh or in a capsule form and should not be overdone, due to something called the "heinz" factor, which we have discussed before. You can buy capsules, but do not buy the odor-free variety, that defeats the purpose. Brewer's yeast is sometimes not tolerated well, so alternatively you can buy straight B1 capsules, which is the active ingredient in brewer's yeast that repels the fleas. Diatomaceous earth can be purchased at garden supply stores and some health food stores, do not ever buy it from the pool supply store (the silica content is very different and may harm your pet). Finally, black walnut hulls are sold in capsule form at health food stores and work very well.
External methods - bathe with an herbal shampoo containing any of the following: Citronella, Pine Cedar, Eucalyptus, Juniper, Bergamot, Geranium, Rosemary, or Lavender. Oatmeal shampoo also helps to relieve itching if that is an issue. There are also several "spot-on" herbal treatments containing many of the above herbs.
Recipe for your home - 1 1/2 pounds diatomaceous earth, 1 1/2 pounds natural borax, and 1 cup of salt. It make take weeks to control a heavy infestation, but it will work over time. Alternatively, there ARE companies that will come and spray a similar powder-based natural mixture in your home and will guarantee no fleas for a year!
Naturvet - natural flea products
Natural Defense - natural "spot-on" treatments
I have used both of these on new dogs & boarding clients. Most users rave about the effectiveness of the natural products. The only complaint that I have received is that the natural spot-ons tend to stain white pets yellow on the place where it was applied. This is an acceptable complaint to me.
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JULY Super Question
Why is it unsafe to feed cow brains to your pet? Even 30 years ago, this wasn't the case, what changed?
Our Kennel Diet
I now feed 2X/Day because it is easier on the pet.
DOGS
Meal One:
*Yogurt - full fat, plain variety
*Egg(s) - fed w/shell
*"Fiesta Blend" veggies (Albertsons) - broccoli, carrots, white beans, kidney beans, garbonzo beans, italian flat green beans, and red bell peppers - in food processor
*Cherries - frozen in a bag
*Coconut Oil - extra virgin, raw, organic
*Apple Cider Vinegar - raw
*Kelp
*"Wild Things" raw food additive
Meal Two:
*Cottage cheese - full fat, plain
*Same veggies as lunch
*Rind from the cucumber, leftover tomatoes, and some shredded cheese - all leftover from our dinner salad, pulverized in the processor
*Strawberries - frozen in a bag or fresh, no sugar
*Beef back ribs (.89/lb Albertsons)
*"Super Fuel" - for all adults
*"Puppy Gold" - only for the pup
*"Joint Rescue" - only on older animals
Meal One:
*Yogurt - full fat, plain variety
*Egg(s) - fed w/shell
*"Italian-style" veggies - zucchini, red peppers, cauliflower, italian green beans, and carrots.
*Mangoes - frozen in a bag
*Chicken hearts
*Coconut Oil - extra virgin, raw, organic
*Apple Cider Vinegar - raw
*Kelp
*"Wild Things" raw food additive
Meal Two:
*Cottage cheese - full fat, plain
*Same veggies and fruit as lunch
*Rind from the cucumber, leftover tomatoes, and some shredded cheese - all leftover from our dinner salad and pulverized in the processor
*Chicken drumsticks (.89/lb Albertsons)
*"Super Fuel" - for all adults
*"Puppy Gold" - only for the pup
*"Joint Rescue" - only on older animals
Meal One:
*Large, meaty knuckle bones for everyone.
Meal Two:
*Primal pet foods - Buffalo/Produce chub
*Egg(s) - fed w/shell
*Coconut Oil - extra virgin, raw, organic
*Apple Cider Vinegar - raw
*Kelp
*"Super Fuel" - for all adults
*"Puppy Gold" - only for the pup
*"Joint Rescue" - only on older animals
Meal One: Fasting, water only. Exception - puppies are fed a light meal, usually just eggs and Puppy Gold.
Meal Two:
*Soaked oats, barley, ground almonds, shredded plain coconut (no sugar added)
*Ground kidney beans
*Yogurt
*Eggs
*Coconut Oil, Apple Cider Vinegar, etc....
This is an example of a few days at our house. I try to maintain a high percentage of bones in the diet. This can be accomplished by feeding the actual bones or by buying "grinds" and such where the bone is ground roughly. I use Primal pet foods buffalo grind and chicken grind, and also ground chicken backs from my local butcher.
It is cost-effective to buy the bags of frozen veggies from the supermarket, or even better, by buying them at Costco. I paid $5.49 for 6# of mixed veggies and $6.99 for a 5# bag of tropical fruit from Costco. The veggies at albertsons run about $1 - $1.50/bag.
I just try to keep a good variety going. I try to throw in a vitamin c pill if I remember. Every few days I go into the fridge and clean out any old food - if its not too spicy, the dogs get it in their food. The dogs also routinely get any fruit that has gotten too ripe for us, the crusty bread from the bottom of the bag, and whatever else I come across that is edible.
CATS
The cats still eat kibble in the morning (Fromm). At night, they eat whatever meat and bones the dogs are eating. The cats have NO problem crunching through and eating chicken thighs, drumsticks, wings, etc. Carbohydrates and vegetables are of little importance to your cat, a true carnivore. Dogs are considered omnivorous, although they *technically* have a carnivore stature. Humans are omnivores with a vegetarian stature (tall and able to pick from trees).
I am trying to move my cats to an all raw diet, but they are fighting most all meat sources, except for chicken. We are trying a new pre-packaged raw diet that just may work called Rad Cat. It comes in Lamb, Chicken, Turkey, and Chicken neck 'treats'.
Best of luck!
~R
COME HERE!!!
Familiar command?
There are several reasons why: he/she has been disciplined when coming to you; never learned the command; or, your dog doesn't respect you.
"Come" or whatever word you use, should be taught first, before anything else. If a basic 'come' has not been mastered, 'sit' and 'down' are of little help. 'Come' may save your dog's life one day!
Whether a puppy or an adult, you have to get their attention. The next part is to make the dog WANT to come to you, i.e. very happy words and clapping! If the dog won't come, YOU must go to the dog - do not ever continue to call the dog's name, you will eventually condition the dog to not hear it's name.
When you get to the dog, take the collar and calmly lead the dog to where you were originally and tell them 'good come'.
If the dog runs from you when called, you will need to keep the dog on a lead of some sort until this has been accomplished, especially if you can't catch the dog.
You can give treats, kisses, whatever - just make 'come' a POSITIVE experience, and for heaven's sake, quit repeating yourself! Dogs should never be asked to come for punishment. You go to the dog if it has done something wrong, do NOT call him to you - if you do not follow this basic rule, you will have a runner for life.
This takes time if it wasn't learned early. Be patient! It is well worth the time and effort!
R
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